Research on European food culture has expanded substantially in
recent years, telling us more about food preparation, ingredients,
feasting and fasting rituals, and the social and cultural
connotations of food.At the First Table demonstrates the ways in
which early modern Spaniards used food as a mechanism for the
performance of social identity. People perceived themselves and
others as belonging to clearly defined categories of gender,
status, age, occupation, and religion, and each of these categories
carried certain assumptions about proper behavior and appropriate
relationships with others. Food choices and dining customs were
effective and visible ways of displaying these behaviors in the
choreography of everyday life. In contexts from funerals to
festivals to their treatment of the poor, Spaniards used food to
display their wealth, social connections, religious affiliation,
regional heritage, and membership in various groups and
institutions and to reinforce perceptions of difference. Research
on European food culture has been based largely on studies of
England, France, and Italy, but more locally on Spain. Jodi
Campbell combines these studies with original research in household
accounts, university and monastic records, and municipal
regulations to provide a broad overview of Spanish food customs and
to demonstrate their connections to identity and social change in
the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries.