A well-illustrated cultural history of the apparel worn by American
Catholics, Sally Dwyer-McNulty's
Common Threads reveals the
transnational origins and homegrown significance of clothing in
developing identity, unity, and a sense of respectability for a
major religious group that had long struggled for its footing in a
Protestant-dominated society often openly hostile to Catholics.
Focusing on those who wore the most visually distinct
clothes--priests, women religious, and schoolchildren--the story
begins in the 1830s, when most American priests were foreign born
and wore a variety of clerical styles. Dwyer-McNulty tracks and
analyzes changes in Catholic clothing all the way through the
twentieth century and into the present, which finds the new Pope
Francis choosing to wear plain black shoes rather than ornate red
ones.
Drawing on insights from the study of material culture and of lived
religion, Dwyer-McNulty demonstrates how the visual lexicon of
clothing in Catholicism can indicate gender ideology, age, and
class. Indeed, clothing itself has become a kind of Catholic
language, whether expressing shared devotional experiences or
entwined with debates about education, authority, and the place of
religion in American society.