Sugar substitutes have been a part of American life since saccharin
was introduced at the 1893 World's Fair. In
Empty Pleasures,
the first history of artificial sweeteners in the United States,
Carolyn de la Pena blends popular culture with business and women's
history, examining the invention, production, marketing,
regulation, and consumption of sugar substitutes such as saccharin,
Sucaryl, NutraSweet, and Splenda. She describes how saccharin, an
accidental laboratory by-product, was transformed from a perceived
adulterant into a healthy ingredient. As food producers and
pharmaceutical companies worked together to create diet products,
savvy women's magazine writers and editors promoted artificially
sweetened foods as ideal, modern weight-loss aids, and early
diet-plan entrepreneurs built menus and fortunes around pleasurable
dieting made possible by artificial sweeteners.
NutraSweet, Splenda, and their predecessors have enjoyed enormous
success by promising that Americans, especially women, can "have
their cake and eat it too," but
Empty Pleasures argues that
these "sweet cheats" have fostered troubling and unsustainable
eating habits and that the promises of artificial sweeteners are
ultimately too good to be true.