Telling the stories of twelve North Carolina heritage foods, each
matched to the month of its peak readiness for eating, Georgann
Eubanks takes readers on a flavorful journey across the state. She
begins in January with the most ephemeral of southern
ingredients—snow—to witness Tar Heels making snow
cream. In March, she takes a midnight canoe ride on the Trent River
in search of shad, a bony fish with a savory history. In November,
she visits a Chatham County sawmill where the possums are always
first into the persimmon trees.
Talking with farmers, fishmongers, cooks, historians, and
scientists, Eubanks looks at how foods are deeply tied to the
culture of the Old North State. Some have histories that go back
thousands of years. Garlicky green ramps, gathered in April and
traditionally savored by many Cherokee people, are now endangered
by their popularity in fine restaurants. Oysters, though, are
enjoying a comeback, cultivated by entrepreneurs along the coast in
December. These foods, and the stories of the people who prepare
and eat them, make up the long-standing dialect of North Carolina
kitchens. But we have to wait for the right moment to enjoy them,
and in that waiting is their treasure.